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Peony Brooch
This jewelry piece draws its inspiration from a pivotal element of traditional Chinese culture: the Daomadan (Warrior Maiden), a role type in Chinese opera imbued with profound power and symbolic significance.
This jewelry piece draws its inspiration from a pivotal element of traditional Chinese culture: the Daomadan (Warrior Maiden), a role type in Chinese opera imbued with profound power and symbolic significance. As a distinguished branch of the Dan (female) roles, the Daomadan specifically portrays heroines who are masters of martial arts, combining strategic brilliance with chivalrous spirit. These characters often appear as female generals, bandit queens, or swordswomen, extending even to goddesses of war within mythological pantheons.
At the heart of this creation lies an 84.73-carat waterdrop-shaped cabochon tourmaline, positioned as the character’s face. Its luster is warm, deep, and contemplative. The main structure is crafted from 18K gold, weighing a substantial 211 grams—a scale and heft that resonate with the dignity and commanding presence inherent to
the role.
The Daomadan’s most recognizable headpiece element, the Qixing Ezi (Seven-Star Forehead Ornament), is reinterpreted here through the language of high jewelry. Traditionally, this ornate forehead armor was worn by female commanders in ancient times, symbolizing their military rank and valor.
In this work, this iconic structure is rendered through a dense and meticulously arranged layout of gemstones. A total of 1,193 rubies, weighing 92.42 carats, are set in an interplay of round, oval, marquise, princess-cut, and pear shapes. This intricate mosaic simulates the rich, layered textures of traditional opera headdresses—evoking the flow of tassels, the volume of velvet pom-poms, and the delicacy of floral hairpins. The character’s coiffure and silhouette are defined by 364 black diamonds, interspersed with five oval cabochon spinels that add subtle accents. Meanwhile, 1,123 diamonds, 576 pink sapphires, and 313 blue sapphires are woven throughout the headpiece and decorative elements, creating a visual splendor as dramatic and exuberant as the lighting effects on a Peking
Opera stage.